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Lauren Pardee

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Iceland

Top Tips for Traveling in Iceland

Here are some of the things I picked up along the way.

  1. Rent a car and drive yourself places. Renting a car wasn’t cheap by any means (we booked through enterprise) but the ability to be on our own time and avoid crowds made it worth it.
    • Make sure you have a GPS. It’s a big country and there aren’t many places to ask directions.
    • Download the 112 emergency app. It never hurts to be over-prepared when you find yourself stranded in the middle of a National Park. Or something.
    • Fill up your tank when you find a fuel station, you don’t know where the next one will be.
  2. Try to hit stuff at off-peak hours. Gullfoss in the middle of the night, Reykjavik before sun up, and Blue Lagoon before closing were amazing experiences. We didn’t have to contend with buses of tourists wielding their selfie sticks and got the most out of where we were, even if it was for a little less time.
  3. Buy booze at the airport. When you’re leaving Keflavik you can hit up duty-free and take it with you. Do this.
    • Icelandic vodka is awesome.
    • Drinks are EXPENSIVE and I’m talking by Seattle standards. Our wallets were quite glad for the pre-drinks before going out.
  4. Try to pick up the basics of the language. Icelandic people are really nice about speaking English *looking at you Parisians* but they appreciated, and laughed at, our bungled attempts at speaking the native tongue. If I can attempt Eyjafjallajökull and Þingvellir in my weird Northwest accent so can you!
  5. If the Aurora Borealis show up stop what you’re doing and watch. You can’t control when or if you see them but they are the most magical natural phenomenon I’ve experienced. Standing in 0* F temps to watch them dance across the sky was SO worth the frozen feet and noses.
  6. Don’t try the Puffin. I did the leg work for you on this. It’s gross. Think of a gamey oyster, that’s the flavor and texture profile you’re dealing with. Just don’t do it. Even Icelandic people don’t like it.
  7. Do your research. Reading blogs and books helped shape the trip to avoid any unpleasant surprises.
  8. Dress warm!

That Icelandic Plane

A crashed plane left on a black sand beach. Apparently the crash looked worse than it was (everone survived) but they left the wreckage. It was pretty easy to find and there are a lot of blogs that do a good job covering how to get there. One thing to note- we had a bus full of people show up and descend on the place like a plague of locusts while we were there. They took pictures (all up in each other’s way) for about 15 minutes and then tore off again. It was weird, and something that does happen at the ‘bucket list’ stops along the way. Not a reason to not visit, but something to keep in mind.

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That Icelandic Pool

Also known as the Seljavallalaug swimming pool. Don’t ask me to pronounce that.  While leaving Iceland after our first trip I saw a picture of a pool that looked like it fell out of a postcard from a bygone era. I HAD to visit. Not too long after that it made an appearance in an American Express advert, furthering my need to see this place. I did a little digging and realized it was, in fact, an old neighborhood pool that sits at the base of an active volcano. I filed it away under ‘place I hope still exists by the time I can go’. Luckily for me James pays attention to everything and while planning our amazing engagement trip he made sure to include the pool on the list.  It’s not super easy to get to, a 30 minute hike in from the nearest road,  which is all the better because it seems to have kept it from getting too crowded. Although not warm (I got knee deep and couldn’t go any further) it is easily one of my favorite places I’ve been.

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I might have borrowed a hotel robe for this trip

 

The Southern Coast

In stark contrast to the snowy lava fields of the snæfellsnes peninsula is the south coast of Iceland with it’s picturesque waterfalls. It still wasn’t what I would consider warm, but it also wasn’t covered in snow. We didn’t have as much time to explore as I would have liked but driving around and exploring the different stops was incredible.

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Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Driving around the snæfellsnes peninsula was truly out of this world. We passed snow-covered lava fields, mountains, and harbors. This part of Iceland isn’t heavily populated (granted, almost no part of Iceland is heavily populated) which was a bit unsettling for this city girl, but the views were worth the minor stress. We did have a bit of a ‘oh shit’ moment when we beached the car on a snow bank, but that’s a story for another day.

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The Blue Lagoon

I was worried about visiting the Blue Lagoon. It seemed odd since it’s man made, and overly touristy. To a certain extent it was, but we caught it at just the right time to have the most amazing experience. We arrived a few hours before closing and right at the beginning of a light snow storm. The place had mostly emptied out and we had it to ourselves. The snow softly falling on the warm waters made for an enchanted landscape.  We have opted to not return because repeating the experience would be impossible.

Swimming

swimming 2
Water: warm. Air: COLD

I also got some kick-ass advice from my (almost) sister-in-law that made the experience even better. Here it is: mind your hair.  The minerals in the water that are SO great for your skin. They wreak havoc on your hair, get it wet before you go in and LOAD it up with conditioner. Use way more than you think you’ll need. Then try not to fully dunk it in the water, that’s right, no little mermaid shots here. I also took Moroccan oil with me and used a whole lot of it to get my hair to brush back out at the hotel. It was better than it could have been and I’m so glad I took the advice given to me.

Hair aftermath
Spring water aftermath

 

The Golden Circle

A lot of the places you’ve seen documented in Iceland are in the Golden Circle. Gullfoss Waterfall where the European and North American tectonic plates meet, the Geysers, and Þingvellir National Park – I pronounced that one ping-fuller, no idea if that’s correct.  I’m glad we went, it’s amazingly beautiful, and ½ a day starting off early to skip the tourist buses was just the right amount of time. There are so many amazing things to see around Iceland, the golden circle includes a group of those things, but by no means would I recommend it taking up the bulk of your time. Side note for the American’s: you don’t have to pay/get checked in to visit the amazing sites in the Golden Circle. You just show up. I worry that lack of oversite will change but it was neat to experience while we did.

Gullfoss

 

The Hotel I wouldn’t re-visit

Hotel Geyser – When limited to ‘tourist’ spots I tend to ask myself “how bad can it be”? They might be a bit chintzy but generally you’ll get somewhere clean and warm to stay. Sometimes, that isn’t the case and in answer to ‘how bad can it be’ for our brief stay at Hotel Guiser, the answer was bad. Very very bad. Our presence was a huge inconvenience to the staff who sent us on a wild goose chase to find our room. Upon further inspection  after finally finding the room in a different building, a drive away, the room was neither clean, nor warm. We tried to stick it out and after the incredible stays at our previous stops I figured I was just spoiled. The stained linens, hostel space, and thin walls (the neighbor had an issue plugging something in to the wall the next morning. I know that because I heard both the failed attempt as well as the conversation surrounding the need for a different charger)  made us sure it was really just time to go. For the first (and so far only) time we checked out of the hotel early. The location is awesome  and was saved but a brilliant display of the Northern Lights but I would recommend just driving to and from Reykjavik. Certainly not worth staying in this Hotel/ Hostel.

 

Hotel Borg

Hotel Borg  was just my style. I have a deep love for the Art Deco era. From the jewelry and the architecture to the cocktails. I love it all. Hotel Borg perfectly channels the era in a sophisticated yet comfortable style. They recently renovated and the newer rooms blend perfectly with the older. It’s in a great location to explore the city and enjoy what Reykjavik has to offer. We enjoyed brunch in the hotel most mornings and then set off to catch the sunrise (gotta love those short winter days) and see the city. Hotel Borg has been our home base both times we stayed in Reykjavik and will continue to be so.

BorgBorg outside

 

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